All change at Bottega Veneta: designer Daniel Lee moves on

1 year ago 124

Daniel Lee, the decorator credited with revitalising the luxury manner statement Bottega Veneta is leaving the brand.

A connection announcing the quality says it is simply a “joint determination to extremity their collaboration”. But it is simply a daze to the manner industry. Lee, who joined Bottega Veneta successful July 2018, has rapidly made it 1 of the world’s hottest brands. During his tenure, designs had been worn by Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Mary J Blige, and accessories including the “pouch” container and woven leather “Lido” sandals became highly sought-after and overmuch imitated. Sales roseate 2.2% to astir €1.2bn (£1bn) successful 2019 and kept increasing successful 2020, contempt the remainder of the luxury marketplace falling by 23%. In the 3rd 4th of 2021, revenues roseate 8.9% twelvemonth connected year.

Influencer Jessica Wang with the pouch container  astatine  New York manner  week successful  2019.
Influencer Jessica Wang with the pouch container astatine New York manner week successful 2019. Photograph: Christian Vierig/Getty Images

Fashion’s rumour mill has already suggested assorted reasons down the split. Lee antecedently worked astatine Celine nether Phoebe Philo and, with Philo’s ain marque making its much-anticipated debut adjacent year, manufacture insiders are speculating helium whitethorn beryllium joining her. “Welcoming each theories,” wrote Diet Prada connected its Instagram station announcing the news. “Ours? LVMH has poached him backmost to enactment nether Phoebe Philo’s yet-to-debut eponymous marque lol.”

Women’s Wear Daily suggests Lee’s ways of moving had been difficult, with tons of unit members leaving Bottega Veneta. It quotes a root saying: “There’s nary denying his talent, but connected a idiosyncratic level, handling relations is different substance – besides fixed his moving hours, often astatine night. So galore radical left, it was a revolving door.” A presumption successful Detroit past month, and the accent progressive putting it together, whitethorn beryllium the lawsuit that led to Lee leaving the brand.

Models connected  the runway for Bottega Veneta’s AW20 collection, designed by Lee
Models connected the runway for Bottega Veneta’s AW20 collection, designed by Lee. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

Teo van den Broeke, Style Director astatine GQ, besides speculated that the moving civilization whitethorn beryllium the culprit. “Did thing untoward hap wrong the airy ateliers of Bottega Veneta’s Via Privata Ercole Marelli office successful Milan?” he wrote. “Chances are we’ll ne'er know, but there’s small uncertainty that a seismic lawsuit occurred successful bid to precipitate specified alteration astatine specified speed.”

Lee’s Bottega Veneta had a disruptive attack to communication. Social media accounts, present a fixed for luxury brands, were deleted by Bottega Veneta astatine the commencement of 2021. While this was hailed arsenic extremist – and has since been copied by different brands – different pivots person been little successful. Bottega Veneta did not prosecute with integer manner shows during the pandemic, and has since employed invitation lone salon-style presentations successful London, Berlin and Detroit. An after-party successful Berlin successful April – during lockdown successful the metropolis – was criticised connected societal media. “This is truthful fucking immoral, we are successful a MF lockdown present successful Berlin,” wrote influencer Loona Hamilton.

Lee with Mary J Blige successful  Detroit past  month
Lee with Mary J Blige successful Detroit past month Photograph: Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta

In the marque connection announcing the split, François-Henri Pinault, the president of Kering, the luxury radical that owns Bottega Veneta, said: “I americium precise grateful to Daniel for having brought his passionateness and vigor to Bottega Veneta. His singular imaginativeness made the House’s practice applicable for contiguous and enactment it backmost to the centre of the manner scene. I would similar to personally convey him for the unsocial section that helium has written successful the agelong past of Bottega Veneta.” Lee commented: “My clip astatine Bottega Veneta has been an unthinkable experience. I americium grateful to person worked with an exceptional and talented squad and I americium everlastingly thankful to everyone who was portion of creating our vision.”

While the connection ends with a enactment that “a caller originative organisation for the House volition beryllium announced soon”, it is unclear who volition instrumentality Lee’s place. Women’s Wear Daily suggest that the marque mightiness beforehand a subordinate of the plan team, specified arsenic plan manager Matthieu Blazy. This strategy has been employed astatine Gucci, different Kering brand. Alessandro Michele, antecedently portion of the plan team, has had large occurrence since becoming originative manager successful 2015.