In 2014, my partner, Kia, and I near our jobs and went connected a round-the‑world trip. I past carved retired a vocation successful travel penning and photography. The Arctic Circle trail had been connected my bucket database for 10 years. I’d done high-altitude treks successful Nepal and Pakistan, and relaxed day-hiking successful Yorkshire, wherever I live. I emotion the outdoors and escaping into a elemental regular of food, h2o and sleep.
In July 2019, I had 2 weeks to spare, truthful I booked the trip. I travelled 2,000 miles to westbound Greenland to spot the 100 glacial lakes, tundra greenery and wilderness with moraine near down by glaciers. Greenlanders walk weeks retired determination sportfishing and hunting, but this trek takes astir 10 days. The 100-mile way is 1 of the longest signposted and slightest trekked trails in Greenland. You’re guided by reddish circles painted connected stones and connected the 8 huts dotted crossed the trail.
Greenland is 80% crystal sheet, but the way is successful the ice-free 20% successful the summer, erstwhile there’s 24-hour daylight.
It was swelteringly hot, with superb sunshine, truthful I was drenched successful origin 50 sunscreen. Sometimes it was cloudy with a benignant of twilight astir 7pm, erstwhile the prima is closest to mounting but doesn’t.
There are nary trees, which I recovered rather unusual – mostly debased bushes and brush, and domed mountains, similar the Scottish Highlands but higher. The way weaves done rocky valleys and tiny rivers. I’d ne'er encountered specified axenic wilderness.
I’d prepared carefully. I was carrying each my food, maps, aesculapian kit, outer telephone and equipment. I know, due to the fact that of my travelling, I’m portion of the occupation erstwhile it comes to the clime crisis, truthful I effort to permission nary discarded behind, travel a plant-based fare and c offset erstwhile I can. I stayed successful locally tally campsites, escaped huts and hostels. I adjacent packed my thickest waterproofs. Wildfire ne'er adjacent crossed my mind: it wasn’t California, aft all.
By the seventh time of the trek, I was up of docket and successful a lush, greenish country betwixt 2 huge, inactive lakes that reflected the mountains, cloudless bluish entity and agleam reddish huts. I stopped often, taking photos. I was heading for the adjacent overnight hut and reasoning astir sleeping successful a bully edifice astatine the extremity of the trail. It was truthful blistery that I had my scarf tied bandana-style nether my headdress to support the sweat from my eyes.
At astir 3pm, I spotted wispy fume ahead. Then I met 2 American hikers coming from that direction. They said a tiny peat occurrence had breached out. Completely unconcerned by what looked similar the remnants of a tiny occurrence a mates of miles away, I carried on. The fume got a spot thicker, but I didn’t deliberation I’d request to deviate.
Then I bumped into a young hiker, going the aforesaid way, who was tense arsenic helium couldn’t spot the adjacent hut done the now-thick achromatic smoke. We enactment down our sleeping bags to hold it retired but wrong minutes the fume had engulfed us. Sweating and exhausted, we climbed a ridge, uncovering a plateau with a lake. Below, the vale we had conscionable been successful was blanketed successful silvery-grey smoke. I’d ne'er seen thing similar it. We pulled our scarves implicit our mouths to halt the sensation of a bonfire successful our throats. It was aboriginal evening but it wasn’t going to get dark. We walked crossed the plateau for an hr and a half, took h2o from the lake, and saw that the adjacent vale was besides impassable.
We were successful trouble. We tried to transportation our tents but wrong 15 minutes we were coughing uncontrollably, and thought we mightiness not aftermath up again if we stayed. We some had GPS locator phones, truthful we deed the reddish fastener to nonstop our determination to the exigency services. It was a stroke to my pridefulness to inquire for my first-ever evacuation. We rapidly got pinged that a Joint Arctic Command chopper would beryllium with america wrong the hr – a chopper thrust had besides been connected my adventuring bucket list, but not similar this. We picked up 2 much stranded hikers connected the mode back.
Rather than being enactment disconnected by the experience, though, the adjacent time I went backmost retired determination and started different solo trek connected a glacier.
I aboriginal learned that the adust Arctic was cleanable for zombie peat fires, successful which a occurrence burns underground, smouldering for months nether the ice. There’s nary existent rainfall during the summer, lone immoderate snow, and I had gone determination successful 1 of the driest summers connected record. There’s nary denying the environment successful Greenland is changing. This is presently the lone ice-free way passim the summer, but successful a decennary determination whitethorn beryllium much trails with little ice, and much terrible and predominant fires that pain for longer.
As told to Anna Derrig
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